Fine Pashmina Ek Rukh Ring (Palladar) Shawl — Maroon Village Landscape

A fine Kashmiri pashmina ring shawl (Palladar) in deep maroon, self-patterned edge to edge with a flowering vine woven in the same colour, and finished at each end with a broad panel of village landscape — palms, flowering trees, houses with striped roofs and arched bridges over water — in turquoise, saffron, coral and cream, closed by a row of bold coloured stripes.

The name comes from the test. A Palladar is a shawl fine enough to be drawn whole through a finger ring — and that is only possible when the pashmina has been hand-spun on a charkha to a thread so fine it is barely visible against the light. Spinners who do this work have often done nothing else for decades. The weaving that follows is just as slow, because yarn this fine breaks if the loom is pushed.

A woven picture, not a printed one

The end panels belong to the shikargah tradition — the scene shawls of Kashmir, where the weaver builds an entire landscape into the cloth rather than laying it on top. Every roof, palm frond and ripple of water is a separate passage of coloured weft worked in by hand on the loom. Nothing is printed and nothing is embroidered. The maroon ground makes the turquoise in the water read almost lit — on a paler ground the same blues would look ordinary.

Ek Rukh — woven on one face

Kashmiri weavers distinguish between do-rukha, worked so the pattern reads on both faces of the cloth, and ek rukh — one face. This shawl is ek rukh, and on a Palladar carrying a scene this detailed that is the correct choice rather than the lesser one.

Patterning both faces across a panel like this would have doubled the weight of the ends and ended the ring test for good. Working one face keeps the cloth light enough to remain a true Palladar while still carrying a full picture in colour. Turn the panel over and you can see exactly how it is done: the reverse shows the loose ends and floats where each colour turns back. That is not a flaw to be hidden — it is the visible record of a single-face weave, and the reason the shawl still weighs almost nothing.

The ring test

The base cloth is the same ultra-fine pashmina as our plain ring shawls, so this shawl will pass through a ring — but draw it through slowly. The ek rukh panel is denser than the plain ground and can catch if it is rushed. We would rather tell you that than let you find out. Fed through gently, it goes.

Maroon is the quieter of our two landscape pieces — where the ruby red reads bridal, this one reads evening. It carries the same amount of work with less noise.

Details

• Ultra-fine hand-spun Kashmiri pashmina
• Handwoven ring shawl — passes through a finger ring when drawn slowly
• Handwoven ek rukh (single-face) landscape end panels — woven on the loom, not embroidered or printed
• Self-patterned flowering vine ground with striped border
• Approx. 40" × 80"
• Dry clean only
• Handwoven in Kashmir

Hand-spun yarn varies slightly along its length; the faint unevenness you can see against the light is the signature of hand work, not a fault.

Ships in Attan's branded box with a thank-you card, ready to gift.